How to Prep Old Paint for Clear Coat

  1. Default Any reason why I can't spray clear over old paint?

    Hello,

    I have a vintage 60's vehicle which was repainted in the 80's with enamel (I assume Acrylic enamel). It's been about 20 years since that car was painted. The paint on the car is actually very nice and still retains mild gloss since it was garage kept all this time.

    Is there any reason why I can't just clean the car's exterior with a good grease/wax remover and spray a coat of clear on it? I did a spot in an inconspicuous area as a test and no reaction occured and it did make the car glossier. I know you can clear coat a car after enamel has cured for several months, etc. I think 20+ years is as good as any car will get on 'curing' so is there any reason why I can't just clear this whole car?

    FYI: I have no special equipment but very good steady hands so my approach would be something simple like Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel clear one panel at a time.

    Thanks in advance.


  2. Default

    sure, why not? :cool:

    you may have a reaction down the road. I would give that test panel some time

    PS you might do well to scuff with a scotch pad, or some 600 grit paper to make a clean tooth for the clear.


  3. Default

    if your going to do it....definately sand the surface first...if you dont the clear is just going to fly off all over the place once it hardens.
    I'd sand it with 1000 and clear over it if thats what you want to do.

    If i were you i would try compounding the car first with a good cutting compound...maybe even sand it with a little 2000 and compound it.
    The finish will probably come back like glass.. A much better fool proof method than spraying clear over enamel.


  4. Default In response to pane2k..

    Thanks pane2k. I tried a number of products (Turtlewax, Meguiars, etc.) and basically received no results. I've done multi-steps as well such as cleaner, polish, waxes, etc. and basically the results were no better than using a bottle of scratch-x or other similar product.

    I suppose you are right - I could just wet sand the car down and polish/buff out but being such old paint and not knowing how many layers of clear (if any) are on the car are what scared me a bit.

    Good tips. Still open to any more possibilities so I can decide which way to go...


  5. Default

    If the painter who originally painted the acrylic enamel on your car added the hardener catalyst then you shouldn't have any problems clearcoating the car. But if no hardener was added then anywhere there is a chip or a paint line (around moldings/cut off points) then the paint will probably lift.

    If that acrylic enamel is dulling down and you can't bring the shine back then it is already degrading/deteoriating chemcially. Once that starts there is nothing you can do to prevent it from getting worse. It will continue to deteoriate whether you apply clear coat or not.

    I realize you are trying to do the best you can with the exsiting paint on the car but the right thing to do would be to strip the car down to bare metal and start over using much better modern epoxy and urethane primers and paints.


  6. Default :

    Thanks guys,

    This is precisely why I have come here. To benefit from the experienced and professionals on this board. I've always known a 'little bit' about body work, paint and detailing but I don't live with this stuff everyday.

    If that is what is required, so be it. I'll repaint it. Is there any way I can tell if hardener was applied just out of curiousity? I do have one chip that goes all the way to the metal in the trunk (about half the size of a dime). Is that something I could use to determine whether hardener was applied or not? I was originally going to do a chip repair followed by the clearing of the panels but it is looking more like a full repaint is due.

    Sounds like I'll be looking for someone to do a good repaint pretty soon. I want her to show and shine this summer...


  7. Default

    if the paint on the car is just dulled, then there is no reason to strip to bare metal, unless the car has been recoated before without striping. you could just seal and paint with no problems.( one recoat is fine, but i wouldn't go any more than that, you'll get your paint too thick which will cause problems later on)

  8. Default

    when i say compound the car to make the paint shine again, i dont mean using any of those wax products. I know what your talking about..products like zaino and stuff liek that...and IMO theyre a bunch bs.
    You have to compound it with a buffer and a cutting compound. Im willing to bet the paint will shine beautiful if its done professionally.

  9. Default

    FYI: I have no special equipment but very good steady hands so my approach would be something simple like Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel clear one panel at a time.

    Thanks in advance.

    Wait! Are you refering to rattle can clearcoat? Then I'd say NO. Don't put a weak 1K clear over a 2K enamel. Please clarify.


  10. Default What ever you do...

    Make sure you wash the car well before sanding and use a wax/grease remover...that is before sanding or stripping the paint. The detailing products you used to try to rejuvenate the paint are full of silicones and will need to be cleaned off completely before sanding the car down...

    My 2 cents worth...
    Serge


  11. Default clear coating

    Yes, I was talking about a rattle can since I have no equipment. I have decided to take it to a professional and most likely have the car repainted anyway. It was just something I wanted to do for myself to learn - not that I was trying to be cheap or anything but I don't want to chance it.

    I really appreciate all the responses on here. I have other cars to "test and play" with so I may have more questions in the near future. I am confident everyone's advice has, however, steered me in the right direction here to get this particular car done professionally.


  12. Default

    the real problem could be the fresh solvents in the new coat could react with the old paint,especially if the old paint was not a high quality. If twenty years ago someone cut corners the new clear could have a real reaction on the old paint and start to break it down or show up all the old work under neath. it is a crap shoot. that is what sealers and primers are best suited for having a barrier between old and new, but hety give it shot .

How to Prep Old Paint for Clear Coat

Source: http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?5698-Any-reason-why-I-can-t-spray-clear-over-old-paint

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